The Complete Guide to Karlovac
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The Croatian city you’ve never heard of!
Karlovac is definitely not on many tourist radars, which, in my opinion, makes it even more fascinating to visit. It is the only city I’ve ever visited that was built in the shape of a star. It follows the design of the six-pointed star-shaped Renaissance fortress that used to stand there.
Today, oddly-shaped green parks that used to be moats, and rivers surround the city center, giving it its unique star shape. It’s the perfect place to visit that has not yet been discovered by tourists. Here you can relax and immerse yourself in the everyday lives of the Croatian people.
In a Rush? Check out my Quick Guide:
Where to Stay:
Hostel Bedem (Hostel)
Apartment Vir (Budget)
Amines Kadoor Hotel (Mid-Range)
Robinson Horseville (Farm Stay)
Activities to Book:
Mrežnica Canyon Kayaking Tour
Riverboat Tour on Replica Traditional Boat
Kayak Tour with Museum and Castle
Karlovac Bike Tour
Must-See Spots:
– The Karlovac Star
– The Kupa and Mrežnica Rivers
– The Bistro Kastel
– The Vrbanić Gardens
– Museum of the Homeland War
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12 Things to See and Do in Karlovac
Karlovac is a city for outdoor lovers. It has a surprising amount of things to do for a city off the tourist radar. Here are twelve of them:
1. Walk the star
Designed in 1579 as a “Renaissance Town”, prioritizing harmony and beauty, but also as a defensive outpost to defend the Austrian Empire against attacks from the Ottomans, Karlovac Old Town is in the shape of a six-pointed star, divided into 24 blocks of equal size.
Today, the original fortress may no longer exist, but you can still follow the lines of the defensive moats and walk through the dozen geometrical streets within the star. Don’t miss the main square of Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, the Catholic Holy Trinity Church, and the Karlovac City Museum.
The center is very easily walkable, but if you want to go a bit further out, you can also tour Karlovac by bike.
2. Cruise the Kupa River
Karlovac and the surrounding areas were historically boating towns, with wooden grain boats crowding the Kupa River. Today, you can live a part of that history on board the ‘Zora’, a replica of those traditional Žitna Lađa boats.
Docked in the Brođani village, some 15 km from Karlovac, this 90-minute river cruise will transport you back in time and show you how the grain was transported, as well as provide a tasting of homemade traditional delicacies. Book your tickets here.
3. Storm a medieval castle
High up on a hill overlooking the Kupa River, it was built to defend, lies the Dubovac Castle, the oldest monument in Karlovac, and one of the best-preserved monuments of medieval architecture in Croatia. Today, you can tour the museum, visit the square defense tower that remains, or dine in atmospheric style at the on-site restaurant – the Bistro Kastel.
4. Sample local produce at the Karlovac market
What better way to get to know a town than by visiting its local market? Karlovac has had a central market practically since the city’s foundation, though today you can find it on Trg Hrvatskih Branitelja, south-west of the city center. Here you’ll find the freshest seasonal and local produce, and maybe even pick up some traditional snacks, such as ‘pork crisps’ (čvarci). It’s also one of the best places in the city to people-watch. Come early to get the full experience.
5. Visit Croatia’s dedicated freshwater aquarium
Aquatika is one of Karlovac’s best attractions and the only aquarium in Croatia dedicated to freshwater fish. Spread across three floors with huge tanks and a plethora of river fish, Aquatika engagingly tells their stories, as Croatia has more indigenous freshwater fish species than any other country in Europe. It’s beautifully designed, wonderfully interesting, and a perfect way to spend an afternoon in the city of rivers.
6. Learn about life at a Franciscan monastery
Right in the center of the Karlovac star lies the Holy Trinity Church with its Baroque belfry, built at the same time as the fort itself and modified through the ages. Connected to the church since the 17th century is a Franciscan monastery with a walled garden. Their rare, illustrated books, religious artworks, and artifacts form part of the collection at the monastery museum. If you’re lucky, you may even get a chance to sample the monastic beer still brewed on-site.
7. Have a picnic in a landscaped garden
A local and tourist favorite alike, the Vrbanić Gardens, near the Kupa River, is one of the best spots in town for a leisurely stroll or a picnic. Named after Josip Vrbanić, who was not only the founder, but also the town mayor and a pharmacist, he couldn’t settle on one design for the park, so he chose three: English style to one side, the other side planted with evergreens, and a French style in the center.
8. Visit an Orthodox church
Another landmark monument that you can’t miss in the city center is the Orthodox Church of St Nicholas, built by the local Serbian community in the late 1700s. Painted a pretty eggshell blue, the church and its Baroque belfry were completely rebuilt in 2007 following their destruction during WWII and the Croatian War of Independence. The outside is pretty, but the real draw lies in the interior, where a wall of 74 carved wooden icons has been magnificently restored.
9. Kayak down the Mrežnica River
Out of the four rivers that converge in Karlovac, the Mreznica River is known as the one for kayaking down. Some of the most idyllic spots lie around halfway between Plitvice Lakes National Park and Karlovac, and less than an hour’s drive away from the town center. Many kayaking tours take you into the upper canyon between Primišlje and Tržič, considered the most beautiful part of the Mrežnica River, where you can paddle through a deep and narrow gorge. Here’s a good one.
10. Learn about the recent military history
Just 4km from the town center of Karlovac lies the old Austrian barracks in the neighborhood of Turanj – a strategic point in the city’s defenses during the 1991-1995 Homeland War. Today, in the very fields where the conflict would have raged, the Museum of the Homeland War has been established, a place where visitors can examine the military planes, equipment, and weaponry used at the time.
This tour pairs a visit to the Museum with a kayak tour and ends with a picnic at the castle.
11. Savor Croatia’s most famous beer
You might not have heard of Karlovac before, but while in Croatia, you’ve almost certainly heard of Karlovačko beer, one of Croatia’s most widely consumed products, established right here in this city. The city of Karlovac even hosts a 5-day beer festival each late August, which attracts around 100,000 people!
12. Kick back and relax at Foginovo Beach
If there’s one thing Karlovac does well, it’s anything water-related. And being at the confluence of four rivers, how could it not? Head down to the banks of the Korana River, right in the center of town, to enjoy Croatia’s first designated river beach. It’s got deckchairs, a cafe, water game areas, and even a diving tower – all watched over by a trusty lifeguard. Best part is, it’s free!
Where to Stay in Karlovac
Karlovac is a great place to stay in between destinations as it’s so conveniently located, there’s tons of stuff to do in town, and it’s affordable yet super pretty. While making my way from Plitvice Lakes National Park to the region of Istria, I stopped in Karlovac and had a fantastic time.
Here are four wonderful stays in Karlovac:
- Amines Kadoor Hotel: A four-star hotel in the city center, which features accommodation with a terrace, free private parking, a restaurant, and a bar. It also offers a 24-hour front desk and Zagreb Airport transfers. It’s definitely one of the best hotels in town.
- Apartment Vir: This cozy and tastefully decorated apartment is located right next to the Korana River, making it the perfect spot for easy access to swimming. It also has a garden and a terrace. Perfect for couples or groups of 3.
- Robinson Horseville: Though slightly further than the other stays from Karlovac, Robinson Horseville makes up for it by being a cozy farm stay. Perfect for groups of four or a family, this accommodation offers a garden, barbecue facilities, and a terrace, as well as activities such as horse riding and fishing.
- Hostel Bedem: If you’re looking for somewhere a little more affordable yet super clean, cozy, and located in the city center, then look no further than Hostel Bedem. Newly renovated, it’s actually student accommodation that rents rooms as a hostel during the summer months, and it works perfectly!
Best Day Trips from Karlovac
Karlovac is surrounded by picturesque landscapes and historical sites and is very conveniently located, offering several great day trip options.
Here are some of the best day trips from Karlovac:
Plitvice Lakes National Park
One of Croatia’s most famous natural wonders, the Plitvice Lakes National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage site and approximately a 1h15 drive from Karlovac. The park features stunning waterfalls, crystal-clear lakes, and lush forests, making it a must-visit destination for nature enthusiasts. This was one of my very favorite spots in Croatia. Period!
Book a guided day tour with tickets included here.
Rastoke Village
Visit Rastoke, a charming village known for its watermills and waterfalls. It’s often called the “Small Lakes of Plitvice” and is about a 30-minute drive from Karlovac. If you’d like to do Plitvice Lakes and Rastoke Village in one day, consider this handy tour, which even includes a cheese-tasting!
Ozalj Castle
Explore the historical Ozalj Castle, situated on the Kupa River. The castle has a rich history and beautiful surroundings. It’s only about a 30-minute drive from Karlovac.
Samobor
Enjoy a day in the quaint town of Samobor, known for its Baroque architecture, charming streets, and the picturesque Samoborsko gorje hills. It’s around a 1-hour drive from Karlovac.
Rijeka
Swap rivers for a bit of sea air and make the hour-and-a-half drive to Rijeka. Spend the day wandering along Korzo, climbing up to Trsat Castle for the views, and soaking up the city’s slightly gritty port-town energy.
Cave Park Grabovača
Explore the Cave Park Grabovača, featuring caves and karst formations. It’s a unique natural attraction located about 1.5 hours south of Karlovac.
Topusko
Relax in the spa town of Topusko, known for its thermal springs. It’s a great place for wellness and relaxation, and it’s about an hour’s drive from Karlovac.
Zagreb
Head to the Croatian capital, Zagreb, for a day of exploring historic architecture, museums, and vibrant street life. It’s approximately a 1-hour drive from Karlovac. Here’s a wonderful walking tour of the city.
Istria
If you don’t mind a long-ish day on the road, Karlovac also makes a surprisingly good base for dipping into Istria. Head first to Pula to see the Roman amphitheatre and wander the old town, then continue to Rovinj for colourful harbour views, narrow stone streets, and that Italian-feeling side of Croatia.
How to Get to Karlovac
Karlovac is located smack-bang in the center-north of Croatia and has a pretty big bus station, making it a convenient spot to spend a night or two en route to other, more touristy destinations. Many people stay there while traveling to and from Zagreb, in order to break up a longer journey. The closest international airport is Zagreb Franjo Tuđman Airport, only around 62km away.
If you’re traveling by car, Zagreb is nearly an hour’s drive, Zadar is 2 and a half hours away, as is the Istria region, and Rijeka is a little over an hour away, as is Plitvice Lakes National Park.
Karlovac has a large bus station offering intercity coach connections to more than 161 cities in Croatia, including Zagreb, Rijeka, and Split. It also has some international connections as well. There is also a train network, though I wouldn’t recommend it as it’s not as extensively connected as the bus network. Find travel tickets here.
FAQs About Karlovac
Below are some frequently asked questions about Karlovac. I tried to be as thorough as possible, but you can always drop me a comment or email if you have a question that wasn’t answered here, and I’ll try to get back to you as soon as possible.
What is the history of Karlovac?
Karlovac was founded in the 16th century as a strategic military fortress during the Habsburg-Ottoman wars. Its star-shaped layout was designed by the Italian architect Domenico Dell’Allio.
What are the main attractions in Karlovac?
Key attractions in Karlovac include the star-shaped Old Town, Dubovac Castle, Aquatika, and the Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas.
How far is Karlovac from Zagreb?
Karlovac is approximately 55 kilometers southwest of Zagreb, making it about a one-hour drive by car.
What outdoor activities are available in Karlovac?
Karlovac is full of fun things to do outdoors. From walking through the old moat parks and gardens to swimming, kayaking, and rafting down the rivers.
How can I get to Plitvice Lakes from Karlovac?
Plitvice Lakes National Park is about a 1h15m drive from Karlovac. You can take the E71 and D1 roads.
Is Karlovac a good base for exploring nearby attractions?
Yes, Karlovac can serve as a central point for exploring nearby attractions such as Rastoke, Ozalj, Zagreb, and other towns in the region. It’s not the most exciting of Croatian cities, so I’d only use it as a base if you’re looking for somewhere local and quiet.
Is Karlovac safe for tourists?
Yes! I went as a solo female traveler and couldn’t have felt safer. I walked around town both during the day and during the evening, went to various beaches, and never once felt unsafe. As usual, it’s advised to take any precautions you would normally take and, as always, listen to your gut!
How long should I stay in Karlovac?
This depends entirely on you and your Croatian itinerary schedule. I would recommend one half or full day to see the city, and add on as many days as you want to do day trips.
What’s the best time to visit Karlovac?
The best time to visit Karlovac is typically during the spring (April to June) and early autumn (September to October) when the weather is pleasant. August is also great because the annual beer festival takes place then, and winter offers a quieter, off-season experience. I went in May and couldn’t have been happier!