The Complete Guide to Rijeka
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What to see and do in Croatia’s underrated port city
Rijeka is the kind of Croatian city that makes you work a little bit for it. It doesn’t have the postcard prettiness of Dubrovnik, the island-hopping party vibes of Hvar, or the ancient Roman heritage of Split. Instead, it offers a working harbour, grand Habsburg architecture, sweeping views, excellent coffee, and just a little bit of grittiness. Often overlooked as a transit stop on the way to the islands or Istria, Rijeka feels more lived-in and local than many of Croatia’s better-known seaside destinations.
Initially, I wasn’t sure whether to include it in my Croatian itinerary, but I’m so glad I did. It got me off the tourist trail and gave me a glimpse of a side of Croatia that felt more authentic and everyday.
Read on for my full guide to the best things to do in Rijeka, where to eat and drink, day trips, where to stay, and how to get there.
In a Rush? Check out my Quick Guide:
Where to Stay:
Das Hostel (Hostel)
Kappa Apartments (Budget)
Teatro Suite and Rooms (Mid-Range)
Hilton Rijeka Costabella (Luxury)
Activities to Book:
Walking Tour with local food and Rakia
Painting party and wine studio
Cliffs and caves kayak in Opatija
Krk: 4 islands cruise
Must-See Spots:
– Korzo and the Old Town
– Trsat Castle
– Rijeka City Market
Hire a Car here
Stay Connected with a Croatian eSim
Stay Protected with Travel Insurance
10 Best Things to See and Do in Rijeka
Rijeka has plenty to keep you busy for a day or two. While it often gets overlooked in favour of Croatia’s more famous coastal destinations, it’s still the third biggest city in Croatia after Zagreb and Split.
Here’s my list of top things to do in Rijeka.
1. Stroll along Korzo and the Old Town
Korzo is Rijeka’s main pedestrian promenade and the obvious place to start. It’s lined with cafés, shops, and historic buildings. This is one of the city’s main gathering spots, where locals come to meet friends, run errands, and spend time in the centre. It’s also a good place to get a feel for the everyday rhythm of Rijeka.
Korzo runs right through the Old Town. Look out for the yellow City Tower, one of Rijeka’s most recognisable landmarks; St. Vitus’ Cathedral, the Baroque rotunda; and the Roman Arch, also known as the Old Gateway, Rijeka’s oldest preserved monument.
Tip: Go to Korzo once in the morning for coffee and once in the evening when the city feels a bit more alive. To book a walking tour with a local guide, click here. It even comes with a shot of rakia!
2. Climb up to Trsat Castle
If there’s one thing you do in Rijeka, make it Trsat Castle. Perched on a hill above the city (138 meters above sea level to be exact), Trsat Castle is one of Rijeka’s best viewpoints and offers panoramic views of the city, the harbour, Kvarner Bay, and the surrounding hills.
The castle itself is one of the oldest fortifications on the Croatian coast, with origins dating back to the Liburnians (though the current structure hails from the 13th century). In the summer, they even host open-air concerts and theatre performances, which are definitely worth checking out.
You can reach Trsat by bus, taxi, or, if you’re feeling energetic, by walking up the Trsat stairs from the city centre. It’s a proper climb, so come prepared with water and walking shoes.
3. Visit the Shrine of Our Lady of Trsat
Near Trsat Castle is the Shrine of Our Lady of Trsat, one of Croatia’s oldest Marian shrines and an important pilgrimage site. According to local legend, the house of the Virgin Mary was miraculously transported by angels from Nazareth to Trsat in 1291, where it remained for a short time before later disappearing.
If you’re walking up from the city centre, take the Trsat Stairway (also known as the Petar Kružić Stairway). Beginning at the arch near the Rječina River, this historic route climbs 561 stone steps to the hilltop district of Trsat and was originally built as a pilgrimage route.
4. Eat your way around Rijeka City Market
Rijeka’s City Market, or Placa, is one of the best places to dine according to locals. It sits close to the harbour, ideal for the fisherman selling their daily catch.
You’ll find fresh produce, seafood, and local ingredients inside a collection of handsome market buildings. The fish market is particularly impressive, with decorative details that make it feel far grander than most places dedicated to selling fish. Even if you’re not shopping, it’s worth visiting for the atmosphere.
5. Walk through the Rijeka Tunnel
Rijeka has an underground tunnel built during World War II as an air raid shelter, and it’s one of the city’s more unusual attractions. Known as the Rijeka Tunnel (Riječki tunel), it runs beneath part of the historic centre and was originally constructed by the Italian military in the 1930s and 1940s to provide protection during air raids.
Today, visitors can walk through a section of the tunnel and get a glimpse into an often-overlooked part of Rijeka’s wartime history. The passage stretches for 330 metres beneath the city, connecting different areas of the centre and offering a fascinating contrast to the streets above.
6. Visit Peek & Poke Computer Museum
Peek & Poke is one of Rijeka’s more unusual museums and is well worth a visit if you’re interested in old technology. I love visiting quirky sites like this.
Dedicated to retro consoles, old computers, and all sorts of nostalgic gadgets, it shows just how much technology has changed over the years. Depending on your age, you’ll either recognise half the collection or be amazed that people once used some of this stuff every day.
It’s also a nice change of pace from the city’s historic attractions and a good option if you’re looking for something a bit different.
7. Walk the Molo Longo
Molo Longo is Rijeka’s long waterfront promenade stretching 1,707 metres along the city’s breakwater. It was originally built in 1888 and later extended throughout the 20th century. Today, it serves both as a passenger ship terminal and a popular walking route, offering views back towards the city, across the harbour, and into the workings of Rijeka’s busy port.
It’s industrial and authentic, showcasing Rijeka’s grittier side. I’d recommend going around sunset when the day is winding down.
8. Explore Mrtvi Kanal (Dead Channel)
Mrtvi Kanal, or the Dead Channel, is one of Rijeka’s more unusual and historically interesting corners. Once part of the city’s active harbour system, this narrow waterway was cut off from the main flow of the Rječina River and eventually became a quiet channel lined with boats, old buildings, and reminders of Rijeka’s maritime past.
Today, it’s a pleasant place for a walk, especially if you enjoy seeing the less polished, more authentic side of a city, and it’s also a good spot for photography, particularly in the early morning or late afternoon when the light reflects off the water and the surrounding facades.
9. Admire the Ivan Zajc Croatian National Theatre
One of Rijeka’s most impressive buildings is the Ivan Zajc Croatian National Theatre, a beautiful 19th-century theatre designed by renowned Viennese architects Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer. Even if you’re not seeing a performance, it’s worth stopping by to admire the elegant façade and historic interior.
Nearby, take a stroll through Kazališni Park, a small green space behind the theatre that offers a quieter side of the city centre. It’s a pleasant spot for a short break and a nice contrast to the busy streets around Korzo.
10. See the Leaning Tower of Rijeka (Kosi toranj)
One of Rijeka’s more unusual landmarks is the Kosi toranj, or Leaning Tower. Located in the Old Town near St. Vitus’ Cathedral, this medieval bell tower has been noticeably tilted for centuries due to unstable ground beneath its foundations.
Unlike its much more famous counterpart in Pisa, Rijeka’s leaning tower is often overlooked by visitors, which makes stumbling across it feel like a bit of a hidden gem. The tower originally formed part of the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and dates back to the 13th century, although it has been altered several times over the years.
Where to Eat and Drink in Rijeka
Rijeka’s food scene reflects its history as a port city. Seafood features heavily, as do Italian influences, and there’s a nice balance between traditional restaurants and more modern spots.
Konoba Fiume €€
Located near the city market and fish market, Konoba Fiume focuses on fresh seafood and seasonal ingredients sourced locally whenever possible.
Tip: Ask about the catch of the day. The best choice is often whatever arrived that morning.
Nebo €€€€
Nebo is Rijeka’s standout fine dining restaurant and the place to choose if you’re celebrating something special.
Expect modern Croatian cuisine, tasting menus, and beautifully presented dishes that showcase local ingredients in creative ways.
Bistro Mornar €€
Close to the harbour, Bistro Mornar is another solid choice for seafood and traditional Croatian dishes.
If you’re looking for something straightforward and local, it’s the place to go.
Marsecchia €
Marsecchia is a cosy specialty coffee shop and one of the better places in town for a proper coffee break.
Rakhia Bar €€
If you want to try rakija, Croatia’s famously strong fruit brandy, Rakhia Bar is a fun place to do it. It’s a great place to go out with friends, old or new.
Just remember that rakija tends to be stronger than it tastes!
Best Day Trips from Rijeka
One of the best things about Rijeka is its location. The city sits at the heart of the Kvarner region, making it an excellent base for exploring nearby islands, seaside towns, and even parts of Istria.
Opatija
Just a short drive or bus ride from Rijeka, Opatija is one of Croatia’s most elegant coastal towns. Known for its grand Austro-Hungarian villas, manicured gardens, and seaside promenade, it feels very different from Rijeka despite being so close.
Spend the day walking the Lungomare coastal path, enjoying lunch by the sea, and soaking up the town’s old-world charm, or, if you’re feeling adventurous, join this cliffs and caves kayaking tour.
Krk Island
Connected to the mainland by bridge, Krk is one of the easiest Croatian islands to visit from Rijeka.
You can explore the historic town of Krk, visit wineries around Vrbnik, relax on beaches, or even join an island-hopping cruise.
Cres and Lošinj
These neighbouring islands offer beautiful landscapes, charming harbour towns, and a slower pace of life.
They require a little more planning than Krk or Opatija, but the crystal-clear water, excellent hiking opportunities, and fewer crowds make it worth it!
Pula and Rovinj (Istria)
If you have access to a car, both Pula and Rovinj are possible day trips from Rijeka.
Pula is famous for its remarkably preserved Roman amphitheatre, while Rovinj is one of the prettiest towns in Croatia, with colourful buildings and winding cobbled streets.
Where to Stay in Rijeka
Choosing where to stay in Rijeka largely depends on what kind of trip you’re planning. The city centre is the most convenient base for sightseeing, while neighbourhoods like Trsat and Pećine offer a quieter atmosphere.
City Centre
The city centre is the best choice for most visitors. Staying near Korzo puts you within walking distance of the main attractions, restaurants, cafés, and transport connections.
Trsat
If you prefer a quieter atmosphere and don’t mind being uphill, Trsat offers fantastic views and easy access to the castle and shrine.
Pećine
Pećine is a residential neighbourhood east of the centre known for its coastal setting and swimming spots. It’s a good option if you’d like to combine city sightseeing with easy access to the sea.
How to Get to Rijeka
Rijeka is easy to reach by plane, bus, train, ferry, or car, and its position on the Kvarner coast makes it a convenient gateway to both the Croatian islands and the rest of the country.
By plane
Rijeka Airport is located on Krk Island, around 30 kilometres from the city centre.
Airport shuttle buses operate between the airport and Rijeka, while taxis and rental cars are also available.
If you can’t find flights to Rijeka airport, the two other nearest airports are Pula Airport, around 60 km (37 miles) southwest of Rijeka, and Zagreb Airport, 135 km (84 miles) to the east.
By bus
Buses are one of the easiest ways to reach Rijeka from elsewhere in Croatia.
From Zagreb, the journey typically takes around two to three hours depending on the service.
By ferry
Rijeka serves as an important ferry hub for several islands in the Kvarner region.
Seasonal catamarans and ferries connect the city with destinations including Rab, Cres, Lošinj, and Pag.
By car
Having a car is useful if you plan to explore the wider Kvarner region or Istria or go all around Croatia.
For sightseeing within Rijeka itself, however, a car isn’t really necessary.
By train
Rijeka is connected to Zagreb by rail, although trains are generally slower than buses and not usually recommended. I relied solely on buses for public transport during my Croatia trip, and, unless you want to go very slowly and make lots of changes, I’d recommend you do too.
FAQs About Rijeka
Below are some frequently asked questions about Rijeka. I tried to be as thorough as possible, but you can always drop me a comment or email if you have a question that wasn’t answered here, and I’ll try to get back to you as soon as possible.
Is Rijeka worth visiting?
Yes, Rijeka is worth visiting if you enjoy port cities, history, local culture, markets, cafés, and easy access to nearby islands and coastal towns. It offers a more authentic and less tourist-focused experience than some of Croatia’s better-known destinations.
How many days do you need in Rijeka?
One full day is enough to see the main highlights, including Korzo, Trsat Castle, and the city market. Two days are better if you want to visit museums or take a nearby day trip.
Is Rijeka good for beaches?
Rijeka has several beaches and swimming spots, but it is not primarily known as a beach destination. If beaches are your main priority, nearby islands such as Krk, Cres, and Rab generally offer a better experience.
What is Rijeka known for?
Rijeka is known for its port, Trsat Castle, maritime heritage, historic market, and its role as a gateway to the Kvarner islands.
Is Rijeka expensive?
Is Rijeka safe for tourists?
Yes, Rijeka is generally considered a safe city for tourists. As with any destination, it’s sensible to keep an eye on your belongings in busy areas and use normal travel precautions. I traveled here solo and felt perfectly at ease.
What is the best time to visit Rijeka?
Late spring and early autumn are often considered the best times to visit, with pleasant temperatures and fewer crowds. Summer is ideal for swimming and island hopping, while winter can be appealing if you’re interested in the city’s famous carnival season. I personally visited in May and thought it was ideal.
Is Rijeka better than Split?
They are very different destinations. Split is more famous for its beaches, nightlife, and Roman history, while Rijeka offers a more local atmosphere, fewer crowds, and easier access to parts of the Kvarner region. If you have to choose, visit Split for your first time in Croatia, and Rijeka on a return trip.
Can you do a day trip to Rijeka from Zagreb?
Yes. Rijeka is around two hours from Zagreb by road, making it possible as a day trip. However, staying overnight allows you to experience more of the city and enjoy its atmosphere after the day-trippers have left.