The Complete Croatian Itinerary
How to spend 3 weeks exploring Croatia
I’ve just spent three weeks exploring this Balkan country and can happily confirm: it pretty much has it all! From perfect beaches to picturesque towns to lush national parks, to a vibrant capital city, Croatia knows how to cater to nearly every tourist demographic there is – without losing any of its personal charm.
While traveling through the country I met many other travelers who were doing a “Balkans tour”, hopping through different Balkan countries and getting a little taste of each one. Many expressed surprise that I decided to spend a whole three weeks in just one of them. But, in my opinion, although country hopping can be a great way to see a lot in a little time, it’s not a great way to really get a feel for a place.
Three weeks in Croatia was the perfect amount of time to get to know the country, see many different sides to it, and never get bored. Below, I’ve put together what I think is the perfect 3-week itinerary to see a varied mix of all the best this beautiful country has to offer.
Croatia Three-Week Itinerary
I created an itinerary that minimizes travel time (the longest bus journey is only 4 hours, but most average at around 2h) and maximizes sightseeing. I started my adventure in the south of Croatia, in Dubrovnik, and headed north until ending in Zagreb, but you can also reverse the itinerary and start in Zagreb and finish in Dubrovnik if that’s more convenient for you.
Day 1 to 3: Dubrovnik
Fly into Dubrovnik, conveniently located at the southernmost tip of the country, making it a perfect starting point for the rest of your adventure. Dubrovnik may not be the capital of Croatia, but it is by far the most popular tourist destination in the country, which makes it an easy place to fly into.
Spend your time in Dubrovnik exploring the Old Town, made popular by being one of the main filming locations for Game of Thrones. You can’t miss the City Walls, which offer unparalleled views of the city and the waves crashing against Fort Lovrijenac. For another spectacular view, you can take the cable car to the top of Srd Hill and view the city and walls in their entirety. Though at €15 euro (€27 round trip) for a 4-minute ride, it is quite steep (no pun intended). Alternatives include driving your own car up, hiking, or taking a local bus part-way.
Other points of interest in Dubrovnik include the Rector’s Palace; the Old Pharmacy Museum, a medieval pharmacy located inside the Franciscan Monastery; and The Red History Museum, which provides a glimpse into everyday life in communist Yugoslavia. For Game of Thrones fans, there are countless tours you can go on, or simply walk around town and try and spot the numerous filming locations yourself!
For a full guide to Dubrovnik, click here!
Day 4 to 7: Island Hopping
The next part of your journey will be island hopping. Many people choose either to base themselves in Dubrovnik or Split and do day trips from there, or join a group tour – the sailing ones are quite popular right now. However, if you’re on a budget, or don’t want to join a tour, it’s still totally possible to island hop by yourself. In summer there are multiple ferries a day between the islands and the mainland, but in the shoulder season (May) when I went, there were only 1 or 2 ferries a day, so you’ll have to plan your trip accordingly.
Mljet
You can take a ferry from Dubrovnik Ferry Terminal (Port Gruz), not far from the city center, to the town of Pomena, on Mljet Island. Pomena and the nearby Polace are both access points to Mljet National Park, which covers the entire northwest side of the island.
Pomena and Polace are also cute spots to base yourself for a night. I slept in Pomena, where I enjoyed a delicious fish dinner in one of the many restaurants lining the waterfront. And I also got to enjoy a rare bit of solitude – most of the people who visit Mljet are daytrippers.
Mljet National Park is the island’s main attraction and you can spend an entire day walking or cycling around the two turquoise saltwater lakes that make up most of the park. The larger lake, Veliko Jezero, has a small island in the middle of it, which contains a Benedictine monastery and a cafe/restaurant where you can grab a bite to eat.
If you choose to spend a bit more time in Mljet you can also rent a car or boat and check out the mythical Odysseus’ Cave. According to the ancient Greek poet, Homer, Odysseus sailed through this cave and spent seven years trapped on the island. If the legend doesn’t lure you in, the cave’s beauty certainly will!
Korčula
From Pomena you can take a ferry to one of the next Dalmatian islands over – Korčula. Korčula is not as secluded as Mljet, but not as busy as Hvar, making it the perfect middle ground.
Spend a night in the Old Town, whose peculiar design is based on a fish spine, with the main street being the spine. This medieval walled town, reminiscent of Dubrovnik, is rumored to be the birthplace of Marco Polo (kind of a stretch, but fun to imagine) and the perfect place to base yourself as you explore the island.
Further afield from Old Town is the wine region of Lumbarda, home to the unique white wine, Grk. If the wineries don’t tempt you, the secluded beaches certainly will. On the other side of the island are the cute town and bay of Račišće, and Vaja and Samograd, two of Korčula’s most stunning beaches. Both sides are easily accessible by car or by bike and make for a pleasant ride.
Hvar
Just a short hour and fifteen minutes ferry ride from Korčula lies the lively town of Hvar on the island of the same name. Hvar’s biggest claim to fame is that, apart from being one of the sunniest spots in Europe, it’s also the best island in the Adriatic for nightlife.
Apart from dancing the night away, some of the best activities in Hvar include: exploring the Old Town; getting a birds-eye view of the city from the Fortica Španjola, the Spanish fortress; sunbathing on Dubovika beach or Pokonji Dol beach; strolling along the promenade to the Franciscan monastery; or visiting one of the many other cute towns on the island, such as Stari Grad.
Hvar is also home to famous and fragrant lavender fields which you can visit in the right season (June-July), and it’s also just a short boat ride away from the Blue Cave, one of the most ethereal and popular spots in Croatia.
Brac
If you have time for one more island on your island hopping tour, why not make it Brac? Though closest to Split, Brac is far less touristy than Korčula or Hvar, though it does have one of the most famous beaches in Croatia: Zlatni Rat (also known as Golden Beach) near the town of Bol.
Unfortunately, ferries only run to Bol from June to September, which made it nearly impossible for me to visit in May without a car, so I missed it this trip. If I had had the time, it would’ve definitely made my itinerary though!
Day 8 to 9: Split
From Brac it should be easy to find a ferry to take you to Split, Croatia’s second-largest city. It’s definitely worth spending at least two days here, as there is plenty to see and do, and it has the perfect balance between ancient and modern.
Start your stay in Split by getting a lay of the land and taking a tour of Diocletian’s Palace and the Old Town. Built by the Roman emperor Diocletian in the 4th century AD to serve as his retirement home, this UNESCO World Heritage Site now takes up much of the historic center and is extremely well-preserved and impressive.
For incredible views of Split, with the backdrop of mountains on one side, and the sea on the other, climb to the top of St. Domnius Cathedral’s Bell Tower. Other points of interest include the palm-tree-lined Riva promenade and Marjan Hill (for more views). And for fans of Game of Thrones, Split was also used for various filming locations, including the cellar where Daenerys kept her dragons.
Trogir
Split has plenty of beach options nearby as well, but if you’re tired of beach life from all that island-hopping, you might want to spend a half-day exploring the nearby town of Trogir instead. At only a 35-minute bus ride away, the UNESCO World Heritage Site Old Town is entirely set on an island and is a gem to walk around.
Day 10: Krka National Park
Many people choose to visit Krka National Park as a day trip from Either Split or Zadar, but I would suggest that you use it as a stop to further your trip because it’s pretty much an even distance between the two cities and you don’t want to be going backward. This is what I did, and it was actually quite simple to bring my suitcase on the bus from Split, leave it at a restaurant (Restoran Visovac) near the bus stop that allows you to store your luggage for free (they just ask you to buy a coffee or something), and pick it back up afterward before hopping on a bus to Zadar. By doing so, I saved precious time in my itinerary and cut my bus journeys in half.
Krka National Park’s main attractions are the Skradinski Buk, the biggest waterfall in the park; Visovac Island, home to a Franciscan monastery; and Roški Slap waterfall, sometimes called the ‘vast waterfall’.
The best way to see the attractions are to arrive by boat tour, and then walk the picturesque wooden-planked trails that lead you around the waterfalls.
Day 11 to 12: Zadar
By now you’ll be halfway through your trip and you’ll probably want to go someplace chill where you can relax for a couple of days. Zadar just happens to be the perfect place to do this.
Zadar has a charming Old Town, once belonging to the Romans, and then later on to the Republic of Venice, so there’s still plenty to see, but it’s way more laid-back than all the other main cities I visited in Croatia. Part of it has to do with the fact that it’s way less touristy than Dubrovnik and Split and part of it is because it’s situated on a peninsula, and surrounded by beaches and swimming spots. It helps that it’s also one of the best places to watch the sunset too (hey, if it’s good enough for Hitchcock, it’s good enough for me)!
While you’re ambling around Old Town, don’t miss the Sea Organ, a unique and experimental musical installation. When the waves push air through the tubes located under the marble steps, it plays an eerie yet beautiful tune.
Day 13 to 14: Plitvice Lakes National Park
The Plitvice Lakes is the largest and oldest national park in Croatia. It’s also the most beautiful, in my opinion, and absolutely CANNOT be missed! Think gliding on ferries across turquoise-green waters, strolling along winding wooden walkways while waterfalls of all sizes thunder down all around you. It’s truly a magical experience!
The park consists of sixteen lakes and 90 waterfalls split between the Upper and Lower Lakes. Though technically the whole park can be seen in one day (over the course of around 7-8 hours), I would recommend splitting your visit into two days to be able to really appreciate the beauty without tiring yourself.
There are a number of guesthouses and hotels near the park where you can stay and it’s also possible to leave your luggage at the free storage huts that exist in both park entrances.
Day 15: Karlovac
Karlovac may not be on many tourists’ radars but it was definitely a worthwhile stop if you have a little more time to explore Croatia.
While planning my trip I had tried to find a place to stop in between Plitvice Lakes and the region of Istria, where I wanted to go next. Karlovac was not only conveniently located but it also seemed like a fascinating place to visit.
Karlovac is the only city I’ve ever visited that was built in the shape of a star. It follows the design of the six-pointed star-shaped Renaissance fortress that used to stand there. Today, oddly-shaped green parks that used to be moats surround the city center.
Surrounded by parks and rivers, Karlovac is not only beautiful but a perfect place to visit that has not yet been discovered by tourists. Here you can relax and immerse yourself in the everyday lives of the Croatian people.
Day 16 to 17: Istria
After Karlovac head west to the Istrian peninsula, arguably one of the prettiest regions in Croatia. Sharing a border with Slovenia, and very close to northern Italy, Istria is full of picturesque cobbled-streeted towns that resemble villages in Tuscany – many of the locals even speak Italian! In this itinerary, I would recommend spending a couple of days there and checking out Rovinj and Pula, two gorgeous yet very different towns.
Rovinj
The old town of Rovinj juts out on a headland, surrounded by sea. Colorful houses and narrow, cobblestoned alleys lead up to a hilltop church overlooking the town and the water. Restaurants line the waterfront serving up seafood and homemade pasta. If you didn’t know better, you would’ve been convinced you were in Italy!
Spend a day exploring the old town and catching glimpses of the sparkling blue water from strategically-places arches. If it’s really tempting, dive in for a swim at one of the many swimming spots. Enjoy a leisurely meal and admire the boats docked in the port. Rovinj is all about enjoying the little things.
Pula
Pula is the largest city in Istria and also one of the coolest. The first thing you’ll notice is the Pula Arena, a Roman amphitheater that looks exactly like a smaller version of the Colosseum! It’s definitely the highlight, but there are plenty of other incredible things to see as well, including a hilltop fortress (Fortress Kaštel), an ancient Roman temple (Temple of Augustus), and a triumphal arch (Arch of Sergius).
Once you’ve had your fill of the historic stuff, check out the bustling Market Hall and the Zerostrasse, an extensive system of underground tunnels built during WWI. There are also plenty of beaches and parks nearby if you’re craving some time in nature.
Day 18: Rijeka
After Istria, you’ll want to head back east, making one last stop before reaching your final destination of Zagreb. Rijeka is the third-largest city in Croatia, and also its largest port. Ignored by many along the tourist trail, I found that the grittiness (though still not all that gritty) of Rijeka was a welcome contrast to all the quaint towns I had been visiting!
Rijeka has plenty to do, what with admiring the Hapsburg architecture (it used to be one of the main ports in the Austro-Hungarian Empire), exploring the museums and street art, and visiting the impressive port. My favorite thing, however, was climbing the hill up to Trsat Castle. Not only was it free (a rarity in Croatia) but it had an incredible 360-degree view of the city, port, and surrounding hills.
Day 19 to 21: Zagreb
Your final stop on this whirlwind 3-week Croatia tour will take you to Zagreb. Although it’s the capital city, it doesn’t get as much love as other European capitals, because most of Croatia’s tourism is based along the coast, and not many people venture inland. This, in my opinion, is a huge mistake! Zagreb is incredibly pretty and versatile and you can easily spend three days here and not get bored.
Much like Rijeka, it boasts gorgeous Hapsburg architecture, which lends it the nickname “Little Vienna”. It’s also full of parks and green areas, has an incredible cafe culture, and, like all good capitals, an array of international cuisines.
Major sites include the Zagreb Cathedral, with its impressive height; the Museum of Broken Relationships, perhaps the most quirky concept for a museum that I’d ever seen; Saint Mark’s Church, with its iconic colorfully-tiled roof; and so much more.
Located as it is in the northern part of the country, it’s also one of the best places to end or start your journey through Croatia. My favorite thing about Zagreb? It has all the comforts and conveniences of a big capital city, with all the charm of small-town Croatia. You can’t miss it.